The tender tips of asparagus are emerging with much trepidation after a gruelling winter followed by a false start to spring. I not only adore their unique flavour but the joy that asparagus are one of the only foods which even the Queen can delight in eating with her hands. Since we are currently straddling…
Polpettone Genovese – potato and vegetable casserole
The translation of the name of this dish is Genovese meatloaf. Except that there is no meat. Now before my meat-loving friends begin to turn their noses skyward, this dish is utterly delicious and completely traditional. It just happens to be named meatloaf due to its form. As the second part of its name suggests,…
Buckwheat and jam cake
Buckwheat tends to be associated with soba noodles, Brittany crepes and kasha (Russian buckwheat grains). While buckwheat is tends to be associated with wheat, it is in fact not a wheat at all or even a grass. The seeds of the buckwheat are a cereal which are related to rhubarb and sorrel and are enjoying…
S is for Spring – Esse biscuits from Veneto
These delicate, lemony biscuits are a hint that winter is over and Easter is on its way. They are deceptively robust so they actually are the perfect dipping biscuit to accompany tea, coffee or even hot chocolate. Dipped in chocolate, Esse biscuits transform into a decadent standalone treat. Esse biscuits are traditionally made at home…
A taste of Spring: peas with pasta
This is a very simple pasta dish which can be whipped up quickly. In the Spring, sweet peas in their plump pods beckon after a long winter. Out of pea season, frozen peas make a good substitute. I always have a bag of peas and a package of pancetta in the freezer. In a pinch,…
Cannelloni- baked pasta tubes filled with ricotta and spinach
Easter is on the horizon and while lasagne features in many Italian holidays, for Easter there are cannelloni. Sadly anyone who has had the frozen or ready-made versions of cannelloni may shudder at its mention but the real deal is exactly that. Fresh ricotta mixed with spinach and stuffed into pasta tubes can only be…
Tuscan hot cross buns
For some families, Easter is all about chocolate bunnies and eggs. While that definitely is part of the joy of Easter, my family loves all the various Easter baked treats. Whether it is the ubiquitous colomba from Lombardia; the pink hued and confetti and meringue-topped ciaramicola from Umbria; the agnello di sfoglia, a millefeuille cake shaped like a…
The perfect excuse to eat Nutella pizza
Valentine’s Day is on the horizon, striking fear or longing into the hearts of millions. This divisive Hallmark holiday, intentioned to better the lives of those of us who may take their loves for granted the rest of the year. On the 14th of February we are meant to take stock of our good fortune…
Pumpkin gnocchi in sage and butter sauce
It feels like many people are lamenting the weather and pining for an early spring. While I definitely sympathise with the sentiment, there is something lovely and relaxing about grim weather. There is less expectation to leave the house and the cozy, “hygge” atmosphere would be ruined by glorious, vitamin D giving sunshine. We would…
Warm creamy, custardy rice tart
This rice custard tart is a delicious combination of a creamy, vanilla-flecked rice pudding with a caramelised top all baked in a crisp shortbread crust. It’s the perfect cure for the winter blues. Rosy-cheeked children returning home from the cold will be overjoyed at the sight of this belly-warming tart. I first spotted this tart…
What to cook when your freezer breaks down
We have four questions we ask our children (and answer ourselves) every night. They are, “what was the best thing that happened today?, what was the worst thing that happened today?, what did you find challenging? and what are you most grateful for?” The most surprising thing about this little dialogue is that every day…
Naked ravioli – skip the pasta and go all filling
Everyone loves ravioli and tortelloni but most don’t enjoy the time it takes to roll the fresh pasta to stuff it. While I do enjoy making pasta, time rarely permits this small luxury. Fortunately there are ravioli gnudi which means “naked ravioli” in English as it is all filling and no pasta. These feather-light balls of…
A sweet beginning to the new year
Firstly, I apologise for disappearing for two whole weeks. I was buried by an avalanche of domestic and holiday admin but now I am back and rejuvenated. These next 6 weeks most people will be going through a metamorphosis from holiday overindulgence to teetotal, green-juice-loving, gym bunnies to guilt-laden cheaters transitioning back to their normal…
Necci: simply delicious Tuscan chestnut crepes (that are vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free)
Chestnuts and hazelnuts abound this season. While chestnuts are often most associated with street side vendors roasting large pans of them and are often used in roast stuffings, the Tuscans grind them into a flour and make them into thin pancakes using only water and salt. Necci are a traditional sweet from the mountain communities…
There is nothing silly about Christmas roast goose
Everyone has their ideal Christmas dinner in mind, usually featuring a statement dish. The choice between turkey, ham, roast beef or goose as the pièce de résistance often is less of a question than if to cook them differently this year or spice up the side dishes. While I adore roast turkey, if I get…
Rolled pasta to the rescue
Let’s face it, cooking for a crowd can be complicated. As an adult, the holidays can be a stressful time of year, with increased responsibilities and relationships under pressure. Sharing a meal over the holidays is meant to bring families closer together but sometimes the pressure to fit into the “Hallmark card” feeling makes…
Bergamot: the citrus you may not realise you already know
Bergamot. Sounds exotic, doesn’t it. Most of you would say you have never tried one although you likely already have. It’s the flavour that makes Earl Grey tea distinct. Many of you may not have even realised that flavour was a citrus fruit but there it is. The bergamot is a type of fragrant but…
Indisputably the most beautiful vegetable: radicchio
A display of different coloured radicchio is inevitably the star of any food market. The radicchio from Castelfranco is almost too beautiful to consider eating with its yellowy leaves mottled with red. Wispy, elongated, crimson and white leaves of the red radicchio from Treviso appear otherworldly. But my favourite may be the delicate pink flowers…
Roman delights – gnocchi alla romana
We had an amazing family trip to Rome and Abruzzo a couple of weeks ago. I wandered the streets of Rome at dawn drawn to the Campo dei Fiori market. If ever there was a doubt that autumn had arrived, the market would negate any lingering skepticism as it was in full bloom with every…
Sounds wrong but tastes so good – potato pizza
My husband finds my ability to point out other people’s inconsistencies irritating. One of my favourites is how it is generally accepted in Italy to find it repulsive to order a cappuccino in the afternoon. The claim is that the milk and coffee combination hinders digestion. However I am yet to be given a good…
Rolled pork belly roast stuffed with pecorino, garlic and pancetta from Basilicata
You may not have noticed but it’s lamb season. We are in Abruzzo on a farm this week on holiday. The baby lambs are being born every day. Infact even between breakfast and lunch, several new little faces joined the flock. Spindly-legged baby lambs are stumbling around their pen learning to walk literally within minutes…
The Jack O’Lantern the day after – pumpkin soup
The trees have turned golden as sunlight becomes sparse. The children are waiting with nervous anticipation for Halloween and the accompanying sugar rush. The checklist for Halloween is short – costume, bags of sweets and a pumpkin. Halloween night will be full of excitement but all that goes up must come down. Children will crash…
What to cook when time is short and the to-do list is long
Do you feel like there are not enough hours in the day? That the to-do list is unfathomably long? That problems are mounting while solutions are dwindling? It’s that time of year again when the outlook seems glum, the weather gloomy, sniffles are settling in and holiday euphoria is replaced by post-holiday doldrums. I’ve been…
Warm apple and Nutella cake anyone?
I promised this recipe to a friend. There is nothing more comforting than a slice of warm apple cake on a brisk day. What I like about this recipe is the very high ratio of apples to cake, with nearly a kilo of apples glued together to vanilla-scented, soft-crumb cake. While the moreish Nutella is…
A marriage of seasons: baked, stuffed peaches
The change of seasons continually amazes me. Summer brings periods of heat so intense, I cannot recall from a few short months before what it felt like to be cold. The joy of spying the newest of seasonal produce hitting the markets just as the weather changes can sometimes overshadow the continued enjoyment of what…
Autumn is here! Wild mushrooms on toast to celebrate
Autumn is here and new varieties of apples and pears are popping up daily at the local fruit vendors. Crates full of gleaming red and green apples and pears in all shapes and sizes are too good to resist in the peak of their season. While apples are available year-round, they are picked now and…
Pollo e patate (chicken and chips): a dish everyone will want to come home to
There is this unconvincing expectation that when the children start school, free time will be in abundance. In contrast, I find September to be the most exhausting month as everyone adjusts to going to school, doing homework and the commitment to be on time, well turned out with prepared items in hand. Then there are…
Sicilian swordfish
If you are noticing a big game fish theme these past few weeks, it’s partially because we are coming towards the end of swordfish season. Swordfish are a majestic species of fish which play an important role in the cuisines of Sicily and Calabria where they are historically fished. It is highly prized for its…
A great seaside take on the traditional spaghetti carbonara
Tuesday was the pinnacle of the Italian summer holidays. The word “ferragosto” is synonymous in most Italians’ minds with the seaside. For my friends who work at the seaside, ferragosto is the equivalent of Wednesday in most people’s work week. They know that after ferragosto, the season will start to end as the holiday makers…
Seared tuna with sweet and sour Tropea onions
The month of August brings in a festival in celebration of the Tropea onion which takes place in Ricadi, Calabria. The red Tropea onion was introduced to Calabria by the Phoenicians some 4,000 years ago and has always been famous for it’s sweet flavour and crunchy texture. In addition to its culinary values, the Tropea…
