The Gargano: Limestone cliffs over clear blue water with a trabucco (fishing rig) at the very tip

Continuing from my post from last week about the Trulli in Puglia, now we head back up north along the coast. We stopped in Trani as our cousin had advised us to eat at the Le Lampare al Fortino where he proposed to his soon-to-be wife. The restaurant had a magnificent terrace overlooking the scenic harbour and an atmospheric inside with vaulted ceilings composed as part of the old fort which guarded the port. Le Lampare al Fortino features seafood dishes and modern interpretations of traditional Apulian dishes.

The ancient port in Trani with its 11th to 13th century Romanesque church in the centre right

The port in Trani

Trani

Love a great bread basket

Ciambotto (seafood soup)

Pasta maritata (pasta with mussels, black chickpeas, red prawns and anchovy fish sauce (colatura di alici)

Apulian black chickpeas

Heading north to the Gargano, we first pass run-down seaside towns until we reach Manfredonia where we begin to see magnificent cliff-side towns protruding into the sea. Seagulls fly overhead and the air is heady with the scent of the sea. This is the Gargano, where the contrast of limestone cliffs jutting out into crystalline blue waters delights the senses. Even the trees feel different as they have a curious form. Their arched branches have been pruned to droop downwards. The towns of Peschici, Vieste and Monte Sant’Angelo are the highlights, as is the Foresta Umbra (forest) and the Tremiti Islands

We stop in Mattinata to try some typical sweets from the Gargano at Ciangularie. We know we are in the right place as the name itself means “gluttonous” in local dialect. Here we find traditionally prepared ostie (ostia wafer sandwiches created by the monastery of nearby Monte Sant’Angelo filled with a mixture of almonds, honey, cinnamon and cloves), scartellate (fried pastries shaped into corollas and dipped in syrup), taralli, baci di Mattinata (biscuits of almonds, sugar, liquor and cocoa), mostaccioli (biscuits flavoured with cinnamon, lemon zest and fig syrup) and scaldatelli (ring shaped pastries flavoured with wild fennel).

Ostie (ostia wafer sandwiches created by the monastery of nearby Monte Sant’Angelo filled with a mixture of almonds, honey, cinnamon and cloves)

Scartellate (fried pastries shaped into corollas and dipped in syrup)

Scaldatelli (ring shaped pastries flavoured with wild fennel)

We also found these amazing Apulian biscuits in a nearby shop: intorchiate di mandorle (braided almond biscuits)

We also found these amazing Apulian biscuits in a nearby shop: intorchiate con mandorle (braided almond biscuits)

One of the highlights of the trip was going to fishing rigs called trabucchi which are built right on the cliffs over the water. These are protected historical monuments throughout the Gargano (and in Abruzzo). The trabucchi are atmostpheric, rustic fishing outposts dishing up the freshest fish from the Adriatic while offering unparalleled sea views. The experience of eating at a trabucco remains in my mind as one of the most unique experiences in my life.

Fishing lines being lowered from the trabucco where we were dining

The rustic setting inside a Trabucco

Sunset dinner from a trabucco

Pointing the way to other trabucchi

Dining al fresco on a trabucco

The food served at the trabucco varies from rustic to sophisticated (a real juxtaposition with the surroundings).

Spaghetti ai frutti di mare (seafood spaghetti)

A mixed starter plate of cefalo con cipolla in agrodolce (fried gray mullet with sweet and sour onion),
pepata di cozze (mussels flavoured with garlic, parsley and pepper),
insalata di polpo (octopus salad), cozze ripiene e fritte (stuffed deep-fried mussels) and tortino di alici e ricotta (anchovy and ricotta flan)

Griglia mista (mixed grill of prawns, cuttlefish, sole, octopus and sea bream)

Locally brewed white beer

Zuppa di pesce (seafood soup)

Torta di gelsi (mulberry cake)

Cupeta (almond brittle)

Sorbetto di pompelmo
(grapefruit sorbet)

Onwards we carry on along the north of the Gargano Promontory towards the town of Apricena, where my husband’s grandfather originates, to see our cousin Andrea get married. We find empty campsites and deserted beaches which run for kilometres (these fill up on the weekends in June and then everyday during July and August). We pass huge inland lakes on our left and the sea on the right. White cow bottoms poke out from the roadside bushes, their tails swinging in the air. Town squares and roadside cafes are filled with old men sitting around in groups of two to five, observing life passing by and commenting on it. Finally we arrive at the highlight of our trip, the wedding.

The door to the church

Waiting for the happy couple

Celebratory drinks and canapés

The couple chose traditional local dishes for everyone to enjoy. At the end of the evening, there was a final surprise – a unending candlelit table set under the stars, filled with every imaginable combination of pastries.

Pancotto (bread filled with boiled broccoli rabe, onions, wild chicory, cabbage, cherry tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves and chilli served with olive oil)

Muscisca (an ancient dish of goat cured with salt, chilli, wild fennel and garlic typical of the Gargano)

Macco di fave / ‘ncapriata (pureed dried fava beans with chicory)

Our starlit dessert table

A tiny sample of our extraordinary dessert

Sleep:

Peschici:

The breakfast buffet at Masseria La Chiusa Delle More

Masseria La Chiusa Delle More

Località Padula, Peschici, 71010

Tel: +39 3470577272

This is a family run bed and breakfast in a 16th century farmhouse surrounded by olive trees. The pool and the food are the highlights while the rooms are simple but comfortable.

Eat:

Trani:

Le Lampare al Fortino

Via Tiepolo s.n.- Molo Sant’Antonio (c/o Fortino)
70059 Trani (BAT) Puglia
Tel.: +39 0883.480308

http://www.lelamparealfortino.it/it/home/

A chic, upmarket restaurant with modern interpretations of local seafood classics. Good wine list. If the weather permits, sit outside on the terrace overlooking the ancient port of Trani.

Recommended dishes: pasta maritata (pasta with mussels, black chickpeas, red prawns and anchovy fish sauce (colatura di alici)), ravioli del plin (ravioli with cuttlefish, scampi, asparagus and verbena), risotto al granchio (crab risotto), rombo chiodato con carciofi e grue di cacao (turbot with artichokes and cocoa), branzino con pastinaca, sponsale e radici amare (seabass with sweet wild carrot, leek and chicory) and ciambotto (seafood stewed with tomatoes and served with croutons)

Mattinata:

Ciangularie

corso Matino, 133

Tel: +39 0884 559 966

http://www.ciangularie.it/index.html

A traditional bakery which has been serving local specialties since 1978. Try their range of traditional biscuits including: ostie (ostia wafer sandwiches created by the monastery of nearby Monte Sant’Angelo filled with a mixture of almonds, honey, cinnamon and cloves), scartellate (fried pastries shaped into corollas and dipped in syrup), taralli, baci di Mattinata (biscuits of almonds, sugar, liquor and cocoa), mostaccioli (biscuits flavoured with cinnamon, lemon zest and fig syrup) and scaldatelli (ring shaped pastries flavoured with wild fennel).

Peschici:

Il Trabucco

Localita’ Punta di Manaccora, Litoranea Vieste-Peschici, Peschici(FG)

Summer telephone: +39 0884 911008

Winter telephone: +39 0884 964306

http://www.iltrabuccoristorante.it/index.html

A very rustic fishing post with a phenomenal view of the sunset. The dishes are simply prepared but delicious.

Recommended dishes: spaghetti ai frutti di mare (seafood spaghetti), spigola alla griglia (grilled sea bass) and gamberi alla griglia (grilled prawns)

Trabucco al Monte Puccia

Trabucco al Monte di Puccia

Recinto Monte Pucci SNC, 71010 Peschici

Tel: +39 345 893 3151

This trabucco is in a gorgeous setting. While the ambience is rustic, the food is anything but. Find here expertly prepared sophisticated variations on local dishes. Try the local microbrews. This trabucco is memorable.

Recommended dishes: mixed starter platter (cefalo in pastello su cipolla in agrodolce (fried gray mullet with sweet and sour onion), pepata di cozze (mussels cooked with garlic, parsley and black pepper), insalata di polpo con crostini di pane (octopus salad with croutons), cozze ripiene e fritte (stuffed and deep-fried mussels), tortino di alici e ricotta (anchovy and ricotta flan)), orecchiette crema di fagiolo nero, cozze e peperone (orecchiette with black bean puree, mussels and peppers), griglia mista (mixed grill of prawns, cuttlefish, sole, octopus and sea bream), zuppa di pesce (seafood soup), melanzane alla pizzaiola (aubergine/eggplant with tomatoes and cheese), torta di gelsi (mulberry cake) and sorbetto di pompelmo (grapefruit sorbet).

Corato:

Il Forno di Tiuccio

Via Mongelli, 11 Corato

Tel: +39 080 898 3371

https://www.facebook.com/tiuccio/

This atmospheric restaurant with stone walls and fireplace serves excellently prepared food at honest prices. The service is friendly.

Recommended dishes: puree di fave con bietole e totani in pomodoro (broad bean puree with swiss chard and squid), panzerotto vuoto (fried bread), carpaccio di baccalo (thin slices of raw salt cod drizzled with olive oil) ,tortino di scamorza affumicata, prosciutto e zucchine (tian of smoked scamorza cheese, prosciutto and courgette/zucchini), bigoli con frutta di mare (thick spaghetti with seafood), linguine con pomodorini, tonno fresco e capperi (linguini with cherry tomatoes, fresh tuna and capers), pesce alla griglia (grilled fish), carne alla griglia (grilled meat) and fritto misto (mixed breaded and deep-fried seafood).

Puglia’s Gargano: Italy’s spectacular Adriatic coast