Despite being in the south of France this week, I keep finding myself ordering French variations on my favourite Italian dishes: crudités à l’anchoïade is similar to bagna cauda, beignets de fleurs de courgettes are fiori di zucca (battered and deep-fried courgette blossoms), pissaladière is similar to sardenaira, nicoise salad is similar to condiggiun from Liguria and…