Vin clair tasting to demonstrate the blending of Champagne
Vin clair tasting to demonstrate the blending of Champagne

I thought I loved Champagne before I was properly introduced to it. Now knowing the complexity of its production, I have a deeper respect and value it even more.

I managed to secure an invitation to a Champagne blending master class hosted by the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne and taught by Mr. Stanislas Thienot of Champagne Alain Thienot.

First we discussed how Champagne and Champagne Method and Traditional Method (which is the same process used to make Champagne, but not from the region of Champagne in France) wines are made. Champagne is often made up of blends of about 100 different still wines (known as vins clair). Each of these wines are from different vintages or years, from different parcels of land, different grape varietals (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are the primary grapes used in champagne making) and different fermentation processes  (barrel or tank, or and bottle).  What is unique about Champagne, compared to other sparkling wines, is that it goes through a second fermentation (when the bubbles form) in the bottle.  This is a painstaking artisanal process, during which residual yeast occurs (known as lees).  The Champagne is then aged on these lees.

At the masterclass there were only 7 vins clair to demonstrate the blending process – which I already found mindboggling. The wines were quite acidic and each one had only subtle differences. After tasting a few, the differences started to blur together. It seems unbelievable that someone could mix 100 of these wines to produce a single wine. Champagne producers not only need to blend the wines, but they need to anticipate in advance how the characteristics of each vin clair will change with the effects of time, the second fermentation, and the aging on the lees. Apparently, even a 2% difference in the quantity of a single vin clair has a dramatic impact on the Champagne.The goal for the Champagne house is to create a well-balanced non-vintage Champagne that is consistent year after year, which expresses the signature style of the house. With so many moving variables, this seems an impossible task!

In making a vintage Champagne, only vintage wines from a single year are permitted and the focus is not on replicating a flavour (as in non-vintage Champagne), but rather on reflecting the flavour of the harvest. Vintage Champagnes are to be aged for a minimum of three years on its lees by law, and will change over time so the Champagne must also be made to last.  Finally, there are single vineyard and grower Champagnes. Single vineyard Champagnes, such as Krug’s Le Clos de Mesnil, are rare but do exist – as discussed above, most Champagnes are made from blends, which are assembled from multiple vineyards.  And, grower Champagnes are the product of a single producer and vineyard owner (most Champagne houses use multiple vineyard sources from the region for their blends).  

Each bottle is, in fact, a work of art created by a visionary who can taste the future. How do you put a price on that?

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