2. Perugia

Enter the Etruscan city of Perugia by walking up Via Vannucci and stop at number 32, Pasticceria Sandri (the oldest and best pastry shop in Perugia), for a coffee and pastry before heading into the heart of the old town, Piazza IV Novembre. This is one of the grandest town squares in Italy.  While Perugia has many famous sites – the Fontana Maggiore (the Great Fountain), Palazzo dei Priori (the Prior’s Palace), the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria (the National Gallery of Umbria) and Chiesa di San Pietro (St. Peter’s Church).

Pasticceria Sandri

Inside Pasticceria Sandri

Antica Perugia (chocolate biscuits sandwiching milk and white chocolate creams)

Perugia is also known as a cultural and artistic centre as well as a university town (with many foreign students), but to me it is more famous for its kisses. Baci (meaning kisses) are chocolate and hazelnut sweets made by Perugina which is headquartered here. Perugina also make elaborately decorated Easter eggs. At my home, it is not Easter without one. Perugia hosts one of the largest chocolate festivals, Eurochocote, every October. It is also home to Buitoni, one of the largest Italian producers of pasta, and hosts an internationally renowned jazz festival every year.

Perugina Baci by Smeerch

With chocolate on our minds, we were obligated to visit the city’s best chocolatier, Cioccolato Augusta Perugia to sample their wares. There were artisan filled and flavoured chocolates, chocolate bark with peanuts, citrus zest or chocolate nibs, spreadable chocolate and pistachio paste as well as gelato.

Duomo, Todi

3. Todi

The medieval town of Todi may seem familiar to you even if you have never visited before. This is because the town has had many movies filmed there.

Chiesa di San Fortunato

Todi

Corso Cavour in front of Bar Pianegiani

Start your tour by getting a gelato at Bar Pianegiani on Corso Cavour and walk down to Piazza del Popolo (a sloping town square) to see the Duomo and many 13th and 14th century Palazzi (del Capitano, dei Priori and Vescovile). Nearby, take a look inside the Chiesa di San Fortunato (a Gothic and Renaissance church). After this exhausting effort, have an aperitivo at Vineria San Fortunato located on the steps to the church.

Gubbio

Gubbio

Palazzo dei Consoli, Gubbio

View from the piazza in front of the Palazzo dei Consoli, Gubbio

4. Gubbio

Out of all of these stunning towns, the ancient town of Gubbio stands out the most vividly in my mind. The Gothic stone buildings, terracotta roofs and the shops’ artful displays of hand painted local ceramics whose production dates back to the Renaissance, heads of wild boar (indicating salumi, cheese, torta al testo, pasta and crescia sold inside) and decadent stands of truffles or cakes and biscuits. Don’t miss the Roman Theatre and the Palazzo dei Consoli (particularly the view from the piazza in front).

WIld boar heads

Local ceramics

The Italian beer industry has undergone a Renaissance recently and Umbria is home to some very fine artisan beers. Try the award-winning Collesi beer, produced 20 km from Gubbio. It had been produced since 1870 for a hundred years and was restarted by ten locals.

Collesi beer

Do not be tempted to make a smaller roast, as it is more likely to dry out. Make sure that the butcher wraps the skin (with a good layer of fat to keep the meat moist) around the roast so that the entire top and sides are covered to retain the moisture. If they give you a cut that looks like a doughnut and the flesh is 80% plus exposed, take it back. It will come out dry. Use whichever of the herbs listed below on their own or as a mixture.

2.5 kilos pork shoulder from the neck end (Boston butt), bone in

6 cloves of garlic, skins removed

2 sprigs rosemary, rinsed

6 sage leaves, rinsed (optional)

fronds from 4 fennel bulbs, removed and rinsed

¼ cup olive oil

Coarse sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Twine

Cut the skin of the shoulder in ½ cm apart lines diagonally across the fat without cutting down into the meat. Take 5 grams coarse sea salt and rub it into the skin, ensuring to get the salt into the cuts. Place the meat on a tray skin side up and leave it in the refrigerator overnight.

Heat the oven to 150 C. Finely chop together: 7 grams coarse sea salt, the garlic, sage, fennel and rosemary. Remove from the meat from the refrigerator and slice it open from the side so that it opens like a book and the two sides are still connected (being careful of the bone). Rub the inside with the pounded mixture. Close the meat and use twine to tie shut, tying every 3 cm.

If you want extra crispy, perfect crackling, then use a hair dryer to blow the skin dry for 30 minutes. Don’t panic, even if you don’t do this step, the crackling will still be excellent. Take some more salt and massage it into the skin. Rub salt and pepper on the meat and place inside a roasting tray. Cover the meat with aluminium foil, ensuring it is tightly sealed so that the steam does not escape. Roast for 4 to 5 hours (depending on the temperature of the meat when starting and the width of the roast) or until the inside temperature is 90C (193F). The meat should be tender and be falling apart. Remove the foil. Increase the heat to 220C until the skin on top has bubbled and is crunchy, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it sit for 20 minutes before carving and serve. It is excellent cold as well as hot.

Where to Eat:

Assisi:

Filetto di vitello con tortino di pere e anice (veal fillet with a tian of pear and anise)

Trattoria Palotta

Via Volta Pinta, 2

Tel: +39 075 812649

www.pallottaassisi.it

This local trattoria is run by the Balducci family and serves excellent food. Book in advance.

Near Deruta:

L’Antico Forziere

Casalina, 06051 Casalina Deruta PG

Tel: +39 075 972 4314

http://www.anticoforziere.com

Panicale:

Lilli Tatine