We used Mazaro del Vallo as our base camp to explore the local area as we found a hotel which catered to children. Mazaro itself is not particularly scenic and is known for its sizeable North African population and its port. We found an excellent seafood restaurant along the water, Antico Borgo Marinara. Its convivial chef owner, Bartolomeo Marmoreo was obviously proud of the fresh white sea-bream, grouper and John Dory he procured which he expertly prepares being careful not to overpower the delicate seafood flavours. The restaurant’s elegant decor reflects the location, combining Sicilian colourful hand-painted tiles with the domed roof and arches reminiscent of the Arabs. We had smoked swordfish bruschetta with oregano and the raw seafood platter of prawns, langoustines and tuna sashimi sprinkled with local Sicilian oregano (“Salamarigghiu” in local dialect) which the chef harvests himself alongside the sea.

Nearby is Valle di Belice, a beautiful valley of crumbling stone farmhouses, copper to green vineyards and silvery olive trees. The area is famous for Nocellara di Belice olives and olive oil, Valle di Belice sheep which produce ricotta, vastedda (a rare pulled sheep’s milk cheese), pecorino siciliano and pane nero di castelvetrano (bread made from the ancient Sicilian grain Tumminia). We visited a caseficio (dairy farm and cheese maker) and a traditional mill stone grinding ancient Sicilian varieties of wheat (covered in detail in separate posts).

We spent a couple of days in Menfi, known not only for wine but also for its artichokes. Planeta has big presence in the area with two sites encompassing a wine estate, restaurant, hotel and an olive oil estate.

We spent a morning in Planeta‘s kitchen cooking Sicilian specialties with their chef, Angelo Pumilia. Angelo revealed his grandmother’s secrets as well as his philosophy towards good food beginning every time with a history lesson. His passion for food was palpable and the results were not only delicious but lighter than anywhere else we had eaten. We made Caponata which he described as a quintessential Sicilian fusion between the influences of the French ratatouille and the Arab sweet and sour sauce. Variations abound with zucchini, peppers, potatoes, olives, artichokes, apples, anchovies, sardines, chocolate, basil, pine nuts instead of almonds, tomato paste instead of fresh tomatoes, honey instead of sugar and sultanas. Next we made busiate con pesto trapanese (fresh semolina and water pasta with almond, basil, garlic and tomato sauce- similar ingredients to the Spanish gazpacho). For anyone confused about the pesto variation, pesto just means “to pound” so can be made with any pounded ingredients.

For the main course we made with veal escalopes coated in flavoured breadcrumbs and accompanied by melon, anchovy, onion and oregano salad. The salad is a winter variation on the traditional Sicilian orange, fennel and olive salad. We finished off by making what I think were the best cannoli I had ever eaten. I was slightly scarred by the versions I have had in New York with a dark thick, flavour-less shell encompassing what tasted like sickly sweet sugar paste. His were feather light and thin with slightly sweet fresh sheep’s milk ricotta. Angelo explained that the best cannoli were made at home as the shells could be made thinner as they were filled at the last minute so had no risk of becoming soggy or breaking. Dark shells are an indication that old oil was used to fry the shells. He uses a ratio of 16% sugar to ricotta whereas traditionally it was 44%, resulting in the perfect sweetness. We enjoyed the fruits of our lesson on the terrace overlooking the vineyards amongst the herb garden. A perfect morning.

Also in Menfi is Liccumarie, a modern trattoria filled with convivial families the day we dined. Try their beef braised in olive oil or their bavette steak with pistachio and almond sauce. Local specialties from the Menfi area include arancini (filled rice croquettes), savoiardi di zinna (lady finger’s biscuits), rosticceria (sausage roll), baked and fried calzone (pizza pockets filled with ham and cheese), ravazzate (dough filled with ham and cheese), granita (ice slush), pezzo duro (ice cream covered with chocolate, nougat and candied almonds or black cherry and candied fruit), sardines with salmoriglio sauce (oil, mint, garlic and lemon), torta Savoia (a cake invented by Benedictine nuns to celebrate Italy’s annexation of Sicily) and croccante di mandorle (almonds candied with honey and spices introduced by the Arabs).

We spent All Saint’s Day at Planeta‘s other Menfi estate, Capparrina where they make their olive oil. Our children made frutta Martorana, a convent specialty from the Martorana church in Palermo consisting of marzipan moulded into fruit and vegetable forms and painted. We took a tractor ride around the 98 hectare estate overlooking the sea. They placed hay bales on back for us to sit on and we were accompanied by a violist and cellist while we viewed their 24,000 olive trees glinting in the sun. The perfect conclusion to the perfect holiday.

Recommended dishes: Pasta with prawns and artichokes, pasta alla Siciliana (tomato, sausage, aubergine), cuscus alla trapanese (fish couscous), pasta alla paolina (bucatini with cauliflower, pine nuts and breadcrumbs), millefoglie di mupa (sea bream with breadcrumbs).

Tel: +39 0923 869390

Email: mariagrammatico@libero.it

Maria is world famous for her convent pastries. Her Genovesi (ravioli shaped pastries encasing custard) are considered Sicilia’s best as are her marzipan creations. Her cannoli are also very good.

Antico Borgo Marinara‘s simple yet elegant setting creates an ambience of Arab Sicily. It’s convivial chef is obviously proud of his craft. He took the time to show us his beautiful fresh fish. You can chose a set menu or a la carte.

Recommended dishes: smoked swordfish pate with olive oil and oregano, salt baked fish and the raw seafood platter. Ask the chef for his recommendation of the day.

+39 0924 46820

The quintessential laid back beach restaurant featuring fresh, simply prepared seafood dishes. The sea laps at the edge of the restaurant, located on the beach. It is very difficult to find because of its beach-front location. Drive through a gate which looks like it is to a park.

Recommended dishes: spaghetti alla marinara (spaghetti with mixed seafood), spaghetti con scampi (spaghetti with langoustines), grilled calamari, sardines and swordfish.

A traditional trattoria run by the attentive and lovely Giovanni. Don’t be put off by the austere surroundings, this is home cooked Sicilian food at its best.  Well prepared simple local dishes. Children are treated like part of the family. As close to eating in a local’s home as you will get in food and feel.

Recommended dishes: The menu varies according to what is available at market that day. If they are available, order the pasta con ragu (pasta with meat sauce), minestra alla Siciliana (broad bean, peas and artichoke with ditalini pasta) and pork and fennel sausage with salad.

Menfi:

La Foresteria

Liccumarie

See above under Menfi.

Le Soste di Ulisse